Arashiyama Crossing Dreams, A Night's Passage, Hoshinoya Kyoto
“Ride a small boat against the current, and you'll step into Hoshinoya Kyoto. This waterside private residence nestled in Arashiyama for a century quietly blends the elegance of the Heian aristocrats with Hoshino's hospitality. Cross the river by boat and return with dreams in mind.Here, time is treated gently, and life regains its original slowness and just - right pace.
When I arrived at Arashiyama
it was already afternoon.
The car couldn't go any further when it reached the side of Togetsukyo Bridge. The mountain scenery of Sagano spreads along both banks of the Katsura River. Although it was early February and the branches hadn't sprouted new green leaves yet, the outline of Arashiyama was particularly distinct in the crisp air at the end of winter. The hotel staff had already been waiting at the pier. They were wearing plain kimonos, smiling as they took the luggage and bowing politely. The moment I got on the boat, I knew this journey would be different from an ordinary hotel check - in.
The small boat slowly moved against the current. The mountains and forests on both banks were still in the afterglow of winter. Occasionally, a few water birds skimmed across the water, breaking the silence. In the shallow part of the stream, one could see fish swimming with their tails wagging. Ducks on the shore were lazily preening their feathers, completely ignoring the passing boats. After about ten minutes, the boat gently docked at the hotel pier. It was exactly 2:15 p.m. Here, even the passage of time is treated with due respect.
Walking up the stone steps, I was greeted by the unique fragrance of tatami. The moment I pushed open the door, this natural smell of grass and trees rushed towards me, as if the tranquility of the entire Arashiyama had been contained within this small space.
A millennium of time
Waterside private residence
The story of this hotel dates back a long time ago.
The land of Arashiyama was already a popular destination for the royal nobles to build villas as early as the Heian period (794 - 1185 AD). At that time, the nobles escaped the hustle and bustle of Kyoto, came to Arashiyama, and indulged in the elegant time of boating and poetry - reciting while enjoying the changing scenery of the four seasons. A thousand years later, this elegance still lingers in this landscape.
In the Edo period, the wealthy merchant Kakusaka Ryoi built a private study here. In the Meiji period (1868 - 1912 AD), it was converted into a pure Japanese - style inn called “Rangyakan”, starting a century - long history of welcoming guests. The Japanese writer Natsume Soseki also stayed here twice, looking for inspiration for his writing in this secluded place. Rangyakan operated for a full 110 years until it closed in 2007 due to the death of the old owner.
In 2009, the Hoshino Group took over this land and renovated it while retaining the charm of the original buildings to the greatest extent. Thus, Hoshinoya Kyoto was born. Those seemingly simple pillars, beams, and wooden walls have actually been carefully restored by “Araishi” craftsmen. This is an ancient technique of carefully cleaning century - old wood, treating it with chemicals, and then wiping it with a handkerchief, making the old wood emit a deep and beautiful luster. The architectural designer Toshiie Azuma had a dialogue with these old buildings, injecting a sense of modern comfort while preserving the essence of traditional Kyoto architecture.
Now, there are a total of twenty - five guest rooms here. All the rooms face the Oi River and offer a distant view of the four - season scenery of Mt. Ogura. The four types of rooms each have their own charm: Tsukibashi, Yamatobana, Tanigusa, and Mizunoe. Each room is unique, as if it has naturally grown out of this mountain forest.
Inside the room
Kyoto
Stepping into the room, I was first greeted by the unique fragrance of tatami. The room has a traditional Japanese layout, simple and restrained, with everything in just the right place. When I opened the window, the century - old greenery and flowing water were within reach. The mountain was right in front of me, and the water was at my feet. There was no gap between man and nature.
The design of the room is full of ingenuity everywhere. The flower arrangement in the niche seems random, but the direction of the branches and leaves echoes the mountain range outside the window, presenting a kind of beauty that is subtle and unobtrusive. The wallpaper in the bedroom is printed with the patterns of Kyoto Karakami paper. This is hand - printed using a century - old traditional method by the only two remaining old shops in Kyoto, "Kyoto Karakami Maruji". When the night light shines through the paper, those patterns seem to come to life and gently breathe in the light and shadow. Each guest room uses different patterns, and the twelve patterns each correspond to the atmosphere of the room.
A low - lying "tatami sofa" is specially placed in the Japanese - style room. It not only retains the line of sight height when traditional Japanese people sit upright but also allows people to stretch their legs and relax. The backrest of the sofa is made of Jindaizugi (sacred cedar) and Jindaimatsu (sacred pine), which makes people think of the bamboo forest in Arashiyama. The bedding is made of soft and comfortable down, and once you lie down, you don't want to get up. The bath in the bathroom is filled with the fragrance of yuzu. In the steam of the hot water, the fresh citrus - like smell makes people completely relax.
Smell the fragrance · Calm the mind
At four o'clock in the afternoon, I participated in an experience activity called "smelling the fragrance".
This is a game in the traditional Japanese incense - appreciation culture, which is also known as the "elegant arts" in Japan along with flower - arrangement and tea - ceremony. The incense - appreciation culture was introduced to Japan by the Tang Dynasty monk Jianzhen when he crossed the sea. There are records in "The Tale of Genji" about the aristocrats holding "incense parties". In the Higashiyama cultural era of Kyoto in the 15th century, the incense - appreciation culture developed stably with the support of General Ashikaga Yoshimasa and has been passed down to the present day.
The staff brought out several different kinds of fragrant woods, each with a unique woody smell. Some are as clear and cold as the morning mist in the mountains, and some are as gentle and mellow as the precipitation of time. We were guided to calm down and carefully distinguish each kind of fragrance, feeling its flow and change at the tip of our noses. The fragrance is invisible, but it can reach the deepest part of the heart more directly than any tangible thing. During this process, there is no need to talk or think, just need to breathe and feel. When the whole world becomes quiet and only the whisper of the fragrance remains, that kind of healing feeling is irreplaceable. This is probably what is called "ichi - go ichi - e" in Japanese culture. The fragrance at this moment will never be exactly the same again.
True flavor at ease
At the end of winter and the beginning of spring
Dinner starts at six o'clock. It is the kaiseki cuisine of the hotel, named "True flavor at ease".
In early February in Kyoto, the winter chill has not completely faded, but the message of spring can already be seen on the menu. The appetizer is Saint Gion turnip, as delicate as snow, paired with the fragrance of Yamato tangerine. The moment it enters the mouth, it seems that you can smell the breath of early spring. Among the sake snacks, there is a combination of Kyoto tofu and botrytized wine, and duck liver marinated with aged black vinegar and paired with kumquats. The rich layers between sweet and sour are pleasantly surprising. The main fish dish is young yellowtail, prepared in the pine - bark style and paired with spicy daikon. The elasticity of the fish skin and the sweetness of the fish meat are intertwined in the mouth.
The oysters in the simmered dish are plump and mellow. The vegetarian dish has red and white daikons arranged in the shape of a pine tree, with a taste of the New - Year's pine decorations at the end of the year. When the grilled dish is served, you can still hear the faint crackling of the charcoal fire. The combination of Toji - yo (a kind of fish), shirako (fish milt), and Daitokuji natto is a luxury only available in Kyoto in winter. The main course of eel and bear meat has a rich and mellow fat aroma, with the greenness of Kujo scallions and the sweetness of chestnuts adding a touch of flavor. It makes people can't help but have an extra half - bowl of rice. The rice is served with dried venison and celery, and the soup is clear. Drinking it makes you feel warm all the way to the bottom of your heart. The final dessert is lily - root Mont Blanc, as dense as the morning mist in Arashiyama.
Throughout the whole dining process, the service is meticulous and restrained. The placement of tableware, the rhythm of serving dishes, and the temperature of each dish are all just right. You won't be disturbed, but you are always being cared for. This is the real way of hospitality.
The morning light in Arashiyama
At half - past eight the next morning, breakfast is served in the guest room.
Waking up on the tatami, the sunlight has already filtered through the shoji, casting gentle streaks of light and shadow on the floor. The breakfast is a Japanese "Asanabe", which involves boiling a large amount of seasonal vegetables in a fragrant broth. February is the time when Chinese cabbages and turnips are at their sweetest and most nutritious. With just a pot of clear water and a few seasonal vegetables, all the ingredients come according to the seasons. There is no extra adornment, only presenting the most authentic taste of the mountains and fields. The scenery of Arashiyama outside the window spills into the room. The distant forests are like a painting. Although it's still early spring, the mountains and forests are faintly showing the latent vitality. The service is still quiet and considerate, and everything is in sync with the nature outside the window.
At that moment, I suddenly understood that the so - called "true taste lies within" is probably like this. This bowl of soup, this view of the mountains through the window, and this ray of morning light are all unique moments in the present. Once missed, they will never come again.
Yakatabune
Emerald
At half past ten in the morning, it's the last experience of this trip, taking the yakatabune "Emerald" to tour Arashiyama.
The boat is a traditional yakatabune with a low - hanging roof and open on all sides. Sitting in the boat, the scenery of Arashiyama unfolds unobstructed in front of you. The boatman stands at the stern, slowly poling the bamboo pole, and the small boat moves forward leisurely under his control. The water of the Katsura River is crystal clear, and occasionally you can see fish swimming under the boat. Although the mountains and forests on both sides have not yet donned new green, the serene beauty at the end of winter makes the character of Arashiyama even more prominent.
The staff has already prepared matcha and desserts. The tea is freshly whisked, with fine foam. It tastes slightly bitter at first and then has a long - lasting aftertaste. The desserts are seasonal Japanese confections, with delicate shapes and just the right amount of sweetness. Sitting on the boat, holding a warm tea bowl in hand and watching the scenery on both sides slowly recede, time really seems to slow down. The only sounds in the ears are the sound of the oars paddling the water and occasionally a few bird calls. The whole world is incredibly quiet.
This approximately fifty - minute journey is like a piece of time stolen from daily life. There's no need to rush, no need to think. You just need to sit there, looking at the mountains, the water, and the clouds. This is probably the most precious thing about Arashiyama. It makes you learn again how to feel time, how to get along with nature, and how to find the true taste of life in a cup of tea, a leaf, and the sound of oars in the water.
The Return Journey
At twelve o'clock noon, it's time to check out.
The staff carried our luggage and sent us to the dock. Before boarding the boat, they bowed again. When the small boat sailed away from the shore, they still stood on the dock waving, and they stayed there until our figures disappeared around the corner of the mountain path.
On the return boat, I looked back. Arashiyama is still the same Arashiyama, and the Katsura River is still the same Katsura River. But in this short one - night - two - day stay, time really seems to have slowed down. All the noisy, hasty, and anxious things have been left on the other side of the Togetsukyo Bridge. What I take away is the fragrance of the tatami, the warmth of the yuzu, the simplicity of a pot of clear soup, the moment of silence when smelling the fragrance, the aftertaste of that cup of matcha on the yakatabune, and the morning when the morning light of Arashiyama spilled into the window.
Crossing the river and entering, carrying dreams back. The seasons in Arashiyama will continue to change, and I will remember this perfect moment for a long time.
(The text and pictures are original by the editorial team of Fashion Ulife Ulife,
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