Richard Ekkebus on Amber’s Philosophy of Evolution

Answers from Chef Richard Ekkebus,

Culinary Director at Mandarin Oriental The Landmark, Hong Kong

1. Chef Richard, thank you for joining us at ulife. On behalf of the World’sTravel & Hotel Awards, congratulations on Amber’s third Michelin star in 2025, after 16 consecutive years at two stars, while also retaining the Green Star. What does this moment personally mean to you?

Thank you; this recognition is truly a collective achievement. Reaching three Michelin stars after such a long journey is deeply meaningful, but it would never have been possible without the extraordinary people behind Amber.

I’m incredibly grateful to my team (past and present), whose commitment, creativity, and belief in our vision over the past 20 years have been unwavering. I also want to acknowledge the support of Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group and our owners at Hongkong Land. Their trust has given us the freedom to evolve, challenge conventions, and pursue a very personal, progressive approach to luxury and sustainability.

This moment belongs to everyone who has supported and believed in what we’ve built together; it’s a reflection of shared dedication, resilience, and vision.

2. During the journey to three stars, which “unconventional” decision proved most critical? Was there a dish or technique your team initially resisted, but you insisted on pursuing?

One of the most pivotal decisions was removing dairy, refined flours and refined sugars in 2019, elements traditionally synonymous with French fine dining. It challenged not only technique, but also mindset.

Initially, there was some hesitation within the team; we were stepping away from the familiar language of luxury. But I felt strongly that true relevance today lies in lightness, precision, and responsibility.

By committing to that path, we forced ourselves to rethink flavour; exploring fermentation, natural extractions, and a more refined expression of ingredients. What began as a constraint ultimately became our greatest freedom. It defined our identity and, I believe, was essential in shaping the clarity and philosophy that led us to three stars.

3. From eliminating plastics to fermenting food scraps – these practices are more costly. How do you explain to guests that this “environmental commitment” represents a higher form of luxury?

Luxury today is no longer defined solely by rarity or indulgence; it’s increasingly about awareness, integrity, and purpose. At Amber, we don’t present our environmental commitments as an added cost, but as an evolution of what true luxury should represent. When we eliminate single-use plastics or transform what would traditionally be waste through fermentation, we are not compromising the experience;

we are elevating it. It requires more craftsmanship, more time, and often more investment, but it also results in a cuisine that is more thoughtful, more responsible, and ultimately more refined.

What I often share with our guests is that the highest form of luxury is care, care for the product, for the people who produce it, and for the environment that sustains it.

When a guest dines with us, they are experiencing not just a dish, but a philosophy. Every element on the plate has been considered, respected, and utilized with intention. In that sense, sustainability is not a constraint; it is a deeper expression of excellence. And increasingly, our guests understand that. They recognize that true luxury today is not about excess, but about meaning.

4. In 2019, Amber remove dairy on the menu and modified the signature dish “Aka Uni”. After achieving three stars, would you think about changing or modifying the dish, making another bold move or further improvision? Or is there any dish or recipe directions you would like to change after getting the three stars?

**Dish Name: Aka Uni ˚ Cauliflower ˚ Lobster ˚ Royal Caviar Club ˚ Acipenser Schrenckii X Huso Dauricus ˚

I’ve always believed that a restaurant awarded three Michelin stars should never become static; it should represent a living, evolving philosophy. For us at Amber, achieving this recognition is not a conclusion, but rather a moment to continue pushing forward with even greater clarity and purpose.

The Aka Uni is a very good example of that journey. When we removed dairy in 2019, adapting that dish was both symbolic and technical. It forced us to rethink balance, texture, and depth, and in doing so, it became more precise, more focused, and more aligned with who we are today. But even now, I don’t see it as finished. A signature dish should evolve; it should reflect time, knowledge, and refinement.

That said, evolution doesn’t always mean radical change. Sometimes it’s about subtlety, improving sourcing, refining technique, or enhancing the natural expression of the ingredient. Other times, it may require a more decisive shift if we feel the dish no longer represents our philosophy.

After reaching three stars, I feel an even greater responsibility not to repeat ourselves. We will continue to question everything; from how we work with producers to how we build flavour and texture, always searching for a more thoughtful, more sustainable, and more contemporary expression of luxury.

So yes, there will always be changes; whether visible or not. Because true excellence, to me, lies not in preserving a dish as it was, but in having the courage to keep improving it.

5. You have lived in Hong Kong for over two decades. How has this city shaped your culinary language? Please share one concrete example of local inspiration.

Hong Kong has profoundly shaped my culinary language; it is a city defined by contrast, intensity, and cultural layering. Over the years, it has taught me clarity, restraint, and above all, respect for the essence of an ingredient.

What I find particularly inspiring is the Cantonese approach to purity of flavour. There is a deep-rooted philosophy here: not to mask, but to reveal. That mindset has influenced the way we cook at Amber; less reliance on richness or embellishment, and more focus on precision and natural expression.

A very concrete example would be our work with seafood. In Hong Kong, the expectation of freshness and seasonality is absolute. The way a simple steamed fish is treated; with such care, timing, and balance, has influenced how we handle delicate products. In our cuisine,

we apply a similar philosophy, but through a contemporary lens: lighter sauces, minimal intervention, and techniques that enhance rather than dominate. Living here for over two decades has refined my perspective. It has allowed me to merge classical French foundations with an Asian sensibility; creating a cuisine that feels both international and deeply connected to this city.

6. Which dish features a typical “waste to flavour” ingredient? Walk us through that magic.

One dish that beautifully expresses this idea of “waste to flavour” is our use of vegetable trims and seafood by-products to create deeply layered sauces and oils. For example, when we work with a product like a Hokkaido scallop, every element is treated with intent.

The beards are fermented into a garum, the roe into bottarga and even smaller trimmings are not discarded, they are transformed into a rice cracker. From this, we build a sauce or essence that carries an extraordinary depth, far beyond what the main ingredient alone could deliver.

Similarly, with vegetables, what is often considered waste; peels, leaves, stems become a starting point. Through techniques like lacto-fermentation or gentle dehydration, we transform these parts into condiments, broths, or umami layers that bring balance and complexity to a dish. The “magic,” if you like, lies in shifting perspective.

It’s about seeing value where traditionally there was none, and then applying time, technique, and respect to reveal it. In the end, this approach doesn’t just reduce waste; it creates a more complete, more intelligent expression of flavour. And that, to me, is a very contemporary form of luxury.

7. You have mentored several Michelin starred chefs. What is the one “uncomfortable truth” you want to tell young people who aspire to join fine dining?

The uncomfortable truth is that fine dining is not about glamour; it is about discipline, repetition, curiosity and even sacrifice. Many young people are drawn to this world because of recognition or artistry, but what truly defines it is consistency.

Excellence is built quietly, through precision, humility, and an unwavering commitment to craft. It is demanding, both physically and mentally, and progress is often slow, sometimes invisible.

There are no shortcuts. However, what I find most meaningful and perhaps my most important legacy; is not the stars, but the people. I take great pride in developing highly skilled chefs who leave Amber not only as stronger craftsmen and women, but as more complete individuals than when they arrived.

We have been fortunate to see many exceptionally talented chefs pass through our kitchen, a number of whom have gone on to earn Michelin stars themselves. In that sense, Amber has become more than a restaurant; it is a place of transmission, a kind of atelier where knowledge, values, and discipline are shaped and carried forward.

So my advice is simple: don’t enter fine dining for recognition. Do it because you are willing to commit to the process, to growth, and to the discomfort that comes with striving for excellence. That is where the true reward lies.

8. Do you see parallels between decisionmaking on Himalayan climbs and leading your kitchen to three stars?

There are strong parallels, but for me the mountains offer something even more personal; they bring a rare clarity that is difficult to find elsewhere. At altitude, everything unnecessary falls away. You are left with essentials: breath, movement, judgement. The noise disappears, and with it, any illusion. Decisions become simpler, but also more consequential. As an alpinist, you learn to read conditions with precision, to conserve energy, and to move with intention rather than impulse.

That experience has deeply influenced how I lead in the kitchen. It has refined my focus; helping me prioritize what truly matters and eliminate distractions, whether in a dish or in the way we work as a team. There is a similar need for calm under pressure, for discipline, and for knowing when to push forward and when restraint is the more intelligent choice.

The mountains teach humility above all. They remind you that control is never absolute, and that respect for nature, for timing, for your limits is essential. I try to carry that same mindset into Amber: a quiet, deliberate pursuit of excellence, grounded in awareness and purpose. In that sense, the mountains don’t just inspire me; they sharpen me.

9. As we approach 2026, what brief but powerful message would you give to young chefs or hospitality professionals who are striving to make their mark in the coming year or two?

Focus less on making your mark, and more on building your foundation. In today’s world, there is a temptation to move quickly; to be seen, to be recognized. But true excellence in our profession is still built in the traditional way: through patience, discipline, and an uncompromising respect for craft. Take the time to understand the fundamentals deeply, to repeat, to refine, and to develop your own point of view with honesty.

At the same time, remain open, remain curious. The future of our industry belongs to those who are not only skilled, but also aware of sustainability, of culture, and of their responsibility within a larger ecosystem.

And perhaps most importantly, invest in yourself as a person, not just as a chef or professional. Your character, your resilience, your ability to work with and elevate others, these will ultimately define your success far beyond any individual accolade. If you commit to that process with sincerity, your mark will come naturally.

10. Short and Quick “Fire Around Questions:

a. If you were not a chef, what would you be?

As a kid I wanted to be a fire fighter, then a veterinarian and eventually a Engineer

b. What is the most underrated tool in your kitchen?

The spoon

c. What is the single most important trend in fine dining over the next three years?

Ethical

Acknowledgement

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

Images courtesy of the brand